Over time, our skin’s needs change. We asked the pros for their tips on how to adapt our regimens to ensure we look as good as we feel.
IN YOUR 30s
With hormonal skin issues in the rear-view mirror for many, this is the decade of clear complexions and easy radiance. But careless skincare habits from your 20s may show up. For instance, the impact of environmental damage, which includes pollution, UV rays and even blue light, all lead to premature ageing. And if your skin hasn’t been well protected or hydrated, fine lines and uneven skin tone may emerge, too.
Skincare update
In a nutshell, take your vitamins (topically). Dr Naomi McCullum, founder of The Manse Clinic and Dr Naomi Skin, says that now is the time to add the one ingredient that brightens, repairs, and protects from environmental assault: vitamin C. The best formulas help tackle free-radical damage (which is what occurs when we face-off against pollution and blue light), while working on underlying damage.
Some formulas we love:
Sunday Riley CEO Glow Vitamin C and Turmeric Face Oil, $40, from Sunday Riley
Perricone MD Vitamin C Ester Brightening & Exfoliating Peel, $59, from Amazon
Goop Flower Resurfacing Toner, $45, from Mecca
Call the doctor
When you want to boost your glow, energy-based treatments such as Kleresca and IPL can rejuvenate skin of all ages, as can a HydraFacial and light peels.
“I love Omnilux for quickly rejuvenating skin without causing too much inflammation,” says Dr Jan Knight, founder of Intelligent Ageing in Sydney. If you’re starting to notice impressions from your static lines, then small can injections of Botox help, too.
“Just be aware that placement is key. I see a lot of women who have had their faces changed from having too much Botox injected. See a doctor who understands that a little can go a long way in terms of relaxing active wrinkles,” says Dr Knight.
IN YOUR 40s and 50s
Every woman dreads that moment when a well-meaning friend/spouse/parent observes: “You look tired.” The reality is you may feel perfectly fine … it’s your complexion that’s starting to look fatigued.
“That’s because the skin’s natural exfoliation process is starting to slow, and there’s also less collagen and elastin to maintain the skin’s firmness,” says Dr McCullum. The complaints that doctors hear most often from patients during this time mostly revolve around dullness and lacklustre skin. Rediscovering your radiance and helping maintain firmness is the key challenge.
Skincare update
If you’re not already using retinol, now is the time to add this gold-standard anti-ager to your nightly routine.
“Prescription retinoic acids like tretinoin pack a punch for their anti-ageing and anti-pigment effects,” says Dr Rodrigues.
“Scientific research has demonstrated that they boost collagen formation, improve skin luminosity, even out very fine wrinkles and can improve pigmentary changes on the skin.
“If you’d prefer to start with an over-the-counter formula, the key is to find one that suits your skin type.”
Kiehl’s Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum, $118, from Kiehl’s
Eve Lom Rescue Peel Pads, $77.65, from Allbeauty
Ren Clean Skincare Bio Retinoid Youth Serum, $75, from Mecca
Call the doctor
A professional monthly peel can make skin appear smoother and more radiant, and now is also the time to consider the power of laser and other technologies like this.
“There is a lot of robust, scientific research to support the anti-ageing benefits of radiofrequency microneedling and ablative fractional CO2 laser. It improves fine lines, luminosity, skin tone and naturally boosts collagen production,” explains Dr Rodrigues, noting that while downtime to recover used to be a deterrent, device breakthroughs mean you no longer need to go into hiding while your skin adjusts. Can’t afford time off? A laser called CoolPeel gives all the anti-ageing benefits you could desire in about 45 minutes, without any downtime. For more info, visit skinsmart.com.au
IN YOUR 60s
When oestrogen levels drop after menopause, skin becomes drier and doesn’t retain moisture. It can also thin and become more vulnerable to injury and sensitivity. That’s why your regimen needs to help skin feel comfortable and appear vibrant. If you’ve been gradually building the habits and power players we have discussed earlier in the feature, keep those going. On top of that, moisture is now your skin’s top priority.
Skincare update
When grappling with dryness, it’s not only what you add to your regimen but what you remove that can make all the difference. Cast an eye over the daily formulas you’ve been using for years. A foaming cleanser should become a cream one. The ritual of toning can be swapped for an essence, just as refreshing but far more hydrating. Lighter lotions and creams can be switched for facial oils or hyaluronic acid-packed serums that keep skin feeling comfortable all night long.
According to Dr Rodrigues, the most important ingredients to add are ceramides.
“They are naturally occurring fatty molecules that make up the majority of the top layer of the skin. As we age, ceramide concentrations within the skin decrease and barrier function can become compromised.”
Go-To Very Useful Face Cream, $45, from Go-To
Lancôme Hydra Zen Anti-Stress Moisturising Cream, $98, from David Jones
Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream, $69, from Tatcha
Call the doctor
Treating uneven skin tone with a doctor’s help is a great way to rejuvenate skin.
“The exact treatment depends on the cause of the pigmentation. I recommend niacinamide, azelaic acid, retinoids and prescription tyrosinase inhibitors,” says Dr Rodrigues.
“There are also prescribed creams, tablets, peels, and laser, and energy-based devices that will assist with some forms of hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.”
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