When it comes to skincare, any beauty lover would be familiar with certain well-loved ingredients that make the rounds in endless products and treatments.
Pick up any popular skincare offering from the shelf and bear witness to at least one of the holy complexion-loving trio: hyaluronic acid, retinol or vitamin C. And while, yes, all three of these key ingredients are important for clear, glowing skin, there’s an underdog inching its way up the beauty food chain.
Enter peptides. Almost like the holy trio’s lesser-known cousin, peptides—otherwise known as polypeptides—play a major role in improving the elasticity and longevity of youthful skin.
What are peptides?
According to Dr Eleanor Bradley, science credentialing manager at No7 Skincare in the UK, our skin-loving friends are “short chains of amino acids that form the building blocks of proteins in our skin, like collagen and elastin”.
“These proteins keep our skin feeling firm, bouncy and looking smooth,” she adds. “And some peptides, like those found in No7’s Future Renew, can help support skin’s natural self-repair process, which encourages the skin to make more of these proteins.”
Given that amino acids are the smallest unit of protein, peptides are able to copy other types of protein, i.e. collagen. While collagen-specific products can work just as well, peptides are smaller in particle size, which means that your skin will absorb them more efficiently.
“This is why they are such a brilliant skincare ingredient for anyone with visible signs of skin damage like lines and wrinkles, loss of firmness, and uneven texture,” Dr Bradley advises.
Here’s why, when & how to use peptide skincare specifically
For those looking to add some peptide formulas to their beauty shelves, this handy ingredient can help to reduce fine lines and firms the skin’s general appearance. Those with more mature skin will benefit the most from peptides, since results will be more noticeable and welcomed in skin with less collagen production. But don’t let that stop you – younger skin can still benefit from the extra plumping and glowing results. So, if you’re wondering if there’s a good age to start using peptides, the answer is now!
“The biggest visible benefits will be seen in those people who already have at least some visible signs of skin damage,” Dr Bradley confirms. “The age at which these signs first become noticeable can vary hugely from person to person, as not everyone’s skin ages in the same way.”
When it comes to how often they should be applied, Dr Bradley advises that peptides are best if used twice a day.
“[They] can be found in different products, including serums, day creams, and night creams, giving you lots of ways to incorporate them into your skincare regimen,” she says. “Serums usually have the highest levels of peptides and should be used directly on cleansed skin for the biggest benefit, followed by your night cream.”
Improvements can be seen in skin texture and hydration within two to four weeks, and for more significant benefits such as reducing fine lines and wrinkles, expect it to take up to 12 weeks.
Are there any rules around using peptides?
Unlike ingredients that promise similar results, like retinol, you’re unlikely to have a negative reaction to peptides. There should be no redness, itching, or skin peeling, but if there is, it’s a good idea to stop using the product immediately. “Peptides are not known for side effects such as redness or irritation,” Dr Bradley says. “This also means they tend to be compatible with a range of other skincare ingredients, too.” However, it is important to note that peptides don’t mix well with salicylic and glycolic acids as they can affect their efficacy, so it is best to alternate these on different days.
Peptides for your face…
By applying peptide-rich products twice a day, you should feel the hydrating results instantly and notice a shift in your skin’s luminosity in a matter of weeks.
- FaceTheory Polypep Complex Collagen-Boosting Serum, $85 at Sephora
- Youngblood VividLuxe Crème Blush in Mulberry, $69.95 at Adore Beauty – This blush also has skincare benefits thanks to its formula of hyaluronic acid, ceramides and peptides.
- No7 Future Renew Eye Serum, $44.99; Night Cream, $67.99, Face Serum, $67.99, at Priceline
Peptides for your body…
Yes, that’s right, you can slather peptides all over your body too AND injest them for benefits inside and out. The right ingredients can help nurture your skin from the inside and out, such as this collagen peptide powder and plant-based peptide body butter.
- Beauty Bite Collagen Peptide Powder in Vanilla, $70 at Krumbled Foods
- Naturium The Glow Getter Multi-Oil Body Butter, $39.95 Naturium